We took a cab to Congreso to have lunch at a Peruvian restaurant recommended by a couple of our guide books. But of course, since it’s Argentina, the restaurant wasn’t going to open until an hour later than posted. So, we went to la Moncloa for licuados and coffee to kill some time. Then we walked around the block a few times in an effort to avoid a creepy probably-homeless guy who was trying but not trying to sell some weird rings, and was (maybe) attempting to teach us some words in Spanish. We were all really uncomfortable until I remembered to say, “No molestar!” and we scurried away.

Finally Chan Chan opened, and it was really good! The restaurant was brightly painted (including the bathroom) and the food was plentiful and cheap. We ordered a ceviche sampler – five different kinds of ceviche – as an appetizer, but when it came out, each portion was big enough for a meal. I had lamb stew and there were some delicious little corn nut type things for snacks.

Sunday is market day in San Telmo, and we wanted to get some presents for people back home. Market day. Was. Crazy. The streets were completely filled with people – a complete about-face from the rest of our stay. We saw a great tango band, lots of neat antiques and jewelry, and a group of young people holding up signs offering free hugs! We went to Havana to buy dulce de leche and alfajores then headed back to the apartment to relax before dinner. On the way back, a pigeon flew by me and pooped on my foot. ON MY FOOT. AS I WAS WALKING. HOW!??? Anyway, luckily I was wearing flip flops so it easily washed off with water from one of our omnipresent bottles, but unluckily I was wearing flip flops so the poo was all over my bare toes and warm and slimy and so gross I wanted to cry.

We were at the apartment for an hour or so when we started to feel some weird vibrations. It was kind of a ‘Jurassic Park’ moment. It got closer and closer until we realized some drums were headed our way. We went out on the balcony and saw a drum and dance group heading down Defensa!

We had dinner at Manolo so we could have steak one last time. Cecile and I ate our entire steaks, making sure to slather them in Manolo’s delicious chimichurri.